Photography Tips and Tricks
- Thread starter Rizwan
- Start date
Wildlife photography is a mix of good settings, patience and being ready when things suddenly happen.
Gear matters but technique matters more. A good lens, fast shutter speed and understanding how aperture and ISO work together will make a far bigger difference than chasing camera bodies.
A few key points worth keeping in mind:
• Shutter speed is critical. Fast-moving animals and long lenses usually mean 1/1000s–1/2000s or faster
• Aperture is often a balancing act. Wider apertures help keep shutter speeds high, but stopping down slightly can improve sharpness and give you more depth of field on larger animals
• ISO isn’t something to fear. It’s better to accept a bit of noise than miss focus or motion entirely
This infographic covers the foundations:
• Why lenses matter more than camera bodies
• Why crop-sensor cameras can be an advantage
• Focal length choices for different wildlife scenarios
• Fieldcraft tips like shooting at eye level and working with the light
Wildlife photography rewards preparation but also flexibility. Nail the basics and you’ll be ready when the moment finally happens.
With a blood moon happening very soon, I want to arm you with this knowledge so you’re not scrambling with settings when it turns red.
Here in Melbourne Australia (where I live), totality is expected to be in full effect from around 10:30pm, which means the moon will shift from a bright, normal full moon to a much darker, deep red tone. That’s where many people get caught out.
A normal full moon is actually very bright because it’s reflecting direct sunlight. That’s why typical starting settings look something like:
Normal Full MoonISO 100
f/8 - f/11
1/125 – 1/250 sec
But once totality begins and it becomes a blood moon, it darkens significantly. You’ll likely need something closer to:
During TotalityISO 400 – 1600
f/5.6 – f/8
0.5 – 2 sec
Now, these are just rough starting points.
All cameras are different.
Different sensors handle high ISO differently.
Full-frame cameras generally cope better with noise than older crop sensors.
Longer focal lengths require faster shutter speeds to avoid motion blur.
Atmospheric conditions can change exposure dramatically.
So, treat these settings as a guide, not a rule.
A few things matter more than exact numbers:
• Use a tripod
• Turn off stabilization when mounted
• Shoot in manual mode
• Focus manually using live view
• Use a remote shutter or 2 second timer
• Adjust as the eclipse progresses
Also remember, the moon moves. At 400mm or longer, even a 1–2 second exposure can introduce motion blur. If possible, try to keep shutter speeds around 1 second or faster and compensate with ISO.
And don’t forget, sometimes the best shot isn’t a tight crop. A blood moon rising over a skyline, trees, or a landscape can tell a much stronger story than a frame filled entirely with the moon.
If you’re heading out tonight, test early and adjust as the light drops. Most importantly, enjoy it. These moments don’t come around often.
Hoping for clear skies tonight, Melbourne
